Back to South Georgia
Before Returning Home
 
by Dewi Edwards
    

After boarding the RRS Ernest Shackleton at Signy, we sailed at 8:30pm and headed North back to South Georgia. No sea sickness this trip allowed for two days of birding from the bridge of the ship. Icebergs were everywhere, some small, some large and each one different from the next, all individually sculpted by the wind and waves into a myriad of shapes and sizes. Snow Petrels were numerous around these 'bergs, gliding amongst them or alighting briefly only to take wing moments later. Three Wandering Albatrosses followed the ship, all old males in 'snowy' plumage, accompanied by several Black-browed Albatrosses with occasional sightings of Grey-headed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. Southern Giant Petrels were with us in numbers, along with many Cape Petrels, all wheeling around the ship. Antarctic Prions, Wilson's and Black-bellied Storm-Petrels fluttered over the waves in good numbers, but birds of the day were two Emperor Penguins, far to the North of their normal range, which porpoised briefly after being disturbed by the ship's passage. Soft-plumaged Petrels were seen in good numbers, with over thirty birds counted during the day, the most I've encountered on any voyage in these waters, and never this far south before. Other species seen during the first day included Adelie, Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguin, White-chinned Petrel and two species of dolphin, hourglass and dusky, which surfaced briefly in the ship's wake. On the following day a South Polar Skua flew over the ship briefly, presumably a bird migrating north earlier than usual. Two Fairy Prions were noted along with a single Blue Petrel and as we sailed closer to South Georgia, Common and Georgian Diving-Petrels became increasingly numerous. Macaroni and King Penguins were also seen in small feeding groups
as Cape Dissapointment on the Southwest tip of the island came into view on the horizon.

We arrived at King Edward Point early on the morning of March 1st, but it was several days before I could get out and about to see the wildlife. The Light-mantled Sooty Albatross chicks had grown considerably since I had last seen them at the beginning of January, but three of the nests were found to be empty, the chicks having been predated by skuas. A high percentage of chicks are taken during the first week after the adults leave them alone on the nest and go out to sea to forage.

Small numbers of King Penguins were still ashore at Grytviken, some birds still in moult, others in fresh plumage. South Georgia Pintails were nowhere to be seen, at this time of the year, the birds are moulting and hide away
in the tussac grass to avoid predation. Antarctic Terns were also few and far between, with most birds having moved offshore to feed before flying north for the winter. Elephant seals were hauled out in their wallows moulting, and large numbers of immature fur seals were also ashore and playfighting in practice for when they become adults. One pup was found, beginning to moult from its black natal coat into the silver grey pelage of a yearling.

Cattle Egrets were seen on two days; these birds are now annual vagrants to the island at this time of year and one South Georgia Pipit flew over the point briefly one morning.


On the 11th of March a large number of petrels and prions were found on board a ship tied up at the jetty. The birds become disoriented by the lights aboard ships during nights of heavy drizzle or snow and fly into the
superstructure dazed. Sixty-one birds survived the night, but others were not so lucky and perished. We collected the survivors and kept them in boxes for release the following evening. Five species were involved, Antarctic
Prions (9 adults and 6 juveniles), Wilson's Storm-Petrels (6), Black-bellied Storm-Petrels (22), Georgian Diving-Petrels (11) and Common Diving-Petrels (7). Birds were also flying into the lights of buildings on the point on
other evenings when heavy snowfall was encountered, with the same species being involved plus one South Georgia
Pintail which was also out in the storm.

On the 18th we woke to 10" of snow outside and a gale blowing in from the South. Large numbers of birds were in the bay with Black-browed and Grey-headed Albatross being species not normally seen inshore here. White-chinned Petrels were also blown in and amongst them several Kerguelen Petrels were picked out. This species is often encountered offshore here, but rarely seen from land. Another heavy fall of snow a few days later has now transformed the landscape here from a verdant green to a stark whiteness. Most birds have now left, with only a few hardy gulls, skuas and sheathbills hanging on before they too will leave and head North.. My time here is also coming to an end and whilst I will be sad to leave, I will also be looking forward to seeing everyone back home and birding with you all again.

Wings Over Dutchess, April 2002

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