Farther South in Antarctica

The South Orkney Islands
 
by Dewi Edwards
    

The voyage from South Georgia to the South Orkney Islands is one that I would rather forget than remember as I was suffering from seasickness for the first time in my life! I spent most of the three days sailing either asleep or lying prone in my cabin. Birding took a back seat for change and I only managed a few minutes here and there either staring out of a porthole or standing outside one of the bulkhead doors. On these brief occasions I managed to note some of the commoner seabirds that one would expect in these waters such as wandering, Black-browed and Grey-headed Albatross, Southern Giant Petrels (Antarctic Giant Petrels), Cape Petrels, Antarctic Prions, Black-bellied and Wilson's Storm-Petrels and the occasional Blue Petrel.

Upon arrival at Signy Island, we spent the next few days setting up our tents, which were to be our main accommodation for the next two and a half months. These tents are 12 feet by 15 feet in floor area and
are walk in type with a wooden floor. They are carpeted and have oil fired heaters and are therefore extremely comfortable!

Signy Island is situated off the southern coast of Coronation Island, the largest of the South Orkney Island group. It is a largely barren island of lichen covered rocks and cliffs, with moss banks and small patches of short grasses in some areas. There is an ice cap over the higher elevations, and the highest point on the Island is Tioga Hill at 915 feet. Behind the main base complex is a steep cliff upon which Cape Petrels nest. They pack the ledges in a loose colony of some 200 pairs. They are raucous, sociable birds and the chicks beg for food constantly. The adults feed out to sea and return at regular intervals to feed their chicks. Interspersed between the 'capies' are smaller numbers of Snow Petrels. These snow white birds are a joy to watch as they fly around the cliffs seemingly oblivious to the vagaries of the fickle weather conditions experienced in these latitudes. Antarctic Prions breed in the thousands here. They are burrowing birds and their nests can be found almost everywhere underneath cracks in the boulder screes, holes in moss banks and even underneath our tents. They are nocturnal when coming to land due to the abundance of predatory skuas on the island and come ashore just after dusk. Their strange cacophony of calls can be heard all night and often keep us awake during the hours of darkness, sounding not unlike distant waves breaking on the shore or the static of an untuned radio. Wilson's Storm-Petrels also breed underground in the thousands and are a common sight as they fly, batlike, to and from their burrows. Small numbers of Black-bellied Storm-Petrels breed on the island, but are rarely seen inshore.

Two species of skua breed here, the commonest being the Antarctic Skua. They patrol the cliffs for unwary petrels and will take both adults and chicks when the opportunity arises. Evidence of the slaughter can be found by inspecting the areas near their nests, which are littered with the carcasses of various species. These 'middens' can be a good way of identifying which species are present on the island by inspecting the discarded wings of birds caught by the skuas. The other species of skua is the South Polar Skua, which nests closer to the penguin colonies here. They are generally smaller and lighter in coloration than their larger cousins, with less streaking on their upper parts and a more uniform color overall. They also have three color phases-light, intermediate and dark-and the two species have been known to hybridize. This makes identification problematic on some individuals, but with experience most birds can be separated.

Three species of penguin breed on the island: Gentoo, Chinstrap and Adelie. Their rookeries are dotted around the coast at various locations, with small numbers of Blue-eyed Shags also breeding close to some of these.

Large numbers of Southern Giant Petrels breed on the island and all three color phases can be seen, from pure white birds to almost dark brown, with all manner of intermediate shades in between. Antarctic Terns, Kelp Gulls, and Snowy Sheathbills also breed here in small numbers, though not to the densities found at South Georgia, and irregular visitors seen during the month have included Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Wandering Albatross, Silver-grey Fulmar (Southern Fulmar), Blue Petrel and Macaroni Penguin.

Four species of seal have been seen, with Antarctic fur seal being the most numerous. Almost all individuals being immature bulls which haul out and rest on the lower moss banks. Several of these have been of the white phased variety and one melanistic individual was also seen. Elephant seals are present on several beaches, along with the smaller Weddell seals. Leopard seals can be seen lying on ice floes offshore or patrolling the bays in search of prey, usually penguins. Several whale watches have failed to produce any of the hoped for cetaceans, but I remain optimistic that a sighting is not far away!

Due to being ahead of schedule with our work here, I am now leaving Signy early and returning to South Georgia for the final month of my contract. With any luck, I hope to update you all on how the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross chicks are faring and hopefully be able to stay vertical long enough to carry out some seawatches on the trip north!

Wings Over Dutchess, March 2002

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